O.k., so I copied this post from my thread on "another board," but, hey, it was a lot of typing! Hope it's of some use. I tried to break it down by sites, food, etc. It's by no means exhaustive, but should give you a flavor of all that's available. (From Fall '05) It's in five or six parts.
Andrew
San Francisco- One Person's Suggestions
The Tadich is an old San Francisco favorite, but the hot spot these days is the Ferry Building (not too far a walk from the pier) which has been converted into a gourmet's paradise, with farmer's markets and upscale restaurants, brew pubs, a raw bar, produce, cheese and gelato shops, a French patisserie, a caviar bar (at better prices than the ship!) a Japanese tea house, a wine bar, and great shops for California or Bay Area souvenirs that are a little different than the norm. One of San Francisco's top restaurants is located on the water side of the building- "Slanted Door." Well worth a special trip, but reservations HIGHLY recommended-call 30 days in advance!.
Muir Woods (Just North of the City) is lovely when it's peaceful...the last time I was there, the buses were in full force, and this one women kept yelling at her husband to stop using the video camera. She finally shouted " Ay Cain't buleeeve ya' takin movin' pixcha's ...a' TREES!!!" Ruined the moment then, but we laugh about it often now. But the woods are wonderful.
City views: One of my favorite things to do in S.F. can be done in a rental car, limo or taxi, and shouldn't take too long. By taking Market Street South to the top, and pulling a U-turn, you can pull into a small parking lot which has AMAZING views of the City. Or, instead of turning around at the top of Market, keep going for two more lights and turn right on the road that takes you up to Twin Peaks- it's very popular, and the tour buses do go up there, and usually there are people selling t-shirts until the police chase them away- but the views of the entire city more than make up for it. You can see the entire city, the Bay, the Ocean, The Golden Gate Bridge, the BayBridge, The East Bay, and, on clear days, all the way to Mt Diablo (I live at the foot of the mountain!)
Other views that I love are from Coit Tower on Telegraph Hill (for those that hike, you could easily hike there from the ship). The tower was erected by Lilly Coit as a tribute to firemen, and is in the shape of a fire nozzle. (Rumor has it that she was having an affair with one) You can take an elevator to the top for wonderful views, and the base of the tower has interesting (WPA?) murals in it.
Also, great views of the City are from just over the Golden Gate Bridge in Marin, looking back at the City. You can drive there, or walk across the bridge (very popular) There's a lookout site just over the bridge, and after you leave, if you're in a car, you can drive up to the Marin Headlands on the other side of the highway, which has views of the City, and of the California Coast, which are quite spectacular. The other interesting thing about the Headlands is that there are military installations all throughout the hills along the coast, left overs from WWII, I think. It's possible to walk through the old bunkers and ammunition tunnels, and stand in the old Artillery mounts. Walk around the corner from these along the coast, an the open hills of Marin make you want to sing like Julie Andrews! It's amazing to have this kind of open space so close to the City. This is very easy to do on your way to Napa or Sonoma wineries.
Views are one of my favorite parts of the City, but I'll try to break down into several other categories some fun things to do while here.
Shopping! I'm not a big fan of Fisherman's Wharf or Pier 39, but many people like to see them while visiting, so add in a trip to Ghiradelli Square (where the chocolate was made) It's a large shopping center right near Fisherman's wharf, and there are shops and restaurants, including McKormack and Kuletto's (sp?)for seafood- very good...for the tourist area.
That said, I'd probably skip it for shopping or dining. Union Square is the shopping Mecca, with Macy's, Sak's, Neiman's and Nordstrom nearby. Mixed in are the boutique shops of Bally, Gucci, Channel, Gumps(great china and gifts) Shreve's (jewelry) Armani, etc. The St Francis Hotel is here (think back to the t.v. show, "Hotel." Take the elevator ride up to the top for amazing views of the City. There's a large Apple store for the computer types, and a four-floor Virgin Records for those that want music. And then there are the usual Levis, Cole Haan, Banana Republic, Gap, etc. that you find in most malls in the States. Unless you're wild with money, this might not seem to be the place to go, but it is! Tucked in amongst all the haute couture and pricey baubles are a few great finds, and the area is bustling with activity. The gates to Chinatown ( and inexpensive shops) are on Grant Street, near all the French boutiques (expensive) like Christofle or Mont Blanc, and Loehmann's on Sutter Street has a four floor store for bargains, and a separate shoe store across the street. There's both a DSW shoe store and a Shoe Pavillion- not great on their own, but when the have to compete...! DO NOT SHOP AT THE CAMERA STORES NEAR UNION SQUARE- total rip-off. But you can shop for days, and then refresh yourselves with some of the BEST ice cream at, of all places, a Chinese food takeout place on Mission Street, near Fourth St. on the first floor of a parking garage. Some how Frank, the owner, got a small franchise of Mitchell's Ice Cream, a true San Francisco favorite out in the Mission district. So look for "Asia Chinese Food" but around the side, experience flavors like Macapuno (coconut) Green Tea, or Purple Yam. For those a little less adventurous, there are wonderful "normal flavors." From there, it's a short stroll to Yerba Buena Gardens, a stunning urban oasis where you can sit in peace, people watch, and enjoy your ice cream. The Metreon is right there, too, and has great "gaming" shops (ask your kids/grandkids), computer stuff from Sony, and 16 movies screens, including an IMAX. The Museum of Modern Art is there too (great gift store), as well as an antique carousel that's been restored that you can ride. For kids, there's a skating rink, bowling alley and "Zeum," an interactive tech museum for kids. Down the block is the temporary home for the Museum of Natural History and the Steinhart Aquarium, as well as the Cal. Society of Pioneer's Museum. What does this have to do with shopping? You've got to tempt your mates and families somehow to spend the day in this area!
Other shopping areas that I like are Union Street (not near Union Square, for some reason ), Upper Fillmore St., and Outer Sacramento St. These three are more for the boutique stroll/cafe meal type of afternoon. Nearby all three are wonderful parks- Lafayette Park and Alta Plaza parks, which are lovely, and, again have stunning views. Surrounding these parks are some great examples of residential architecture, including, on the North side of Lafayette Park, Danielle Steel's home- Amazing! It was the Spreckles Mansion, built for the sugar family, and is very grand. If you want a preview, they used the outside of the house for the club in the old movie "Pal Joey" with Frank Sinatra.
And don't forget about my earlier post about the Ferry Building. Fun shops there! Antiques are overpriced, IMO, but there are lovely shops are around Jackson Square, on Outer Sacramento St, or in the Design district near the base of Potrero Hill. But the best shopping experience is for those who are staying around a few days, and rent a car: Nordstrom's Rack in Colma (yes, it makes a difference which one you go to- there's one in the City that's merely o.k.) Most of you know Nordstrom's, but the rack is their clearance center. Those who've shopped in Boston would compare it to Filene's Basement. Truly great bargains, and a great place to get your mate outfitted for a new tux for the next cruise at bargain prices! (to be continued)
This would take me from now until the cruise to do justice to the "foodie" experience that is San Francisco, so I'll just give some of my favorite food things to do, and maybe others will pop in with their experiences/preferences.
Favorite new thing for food is the aforementioned FerryBuilding. On Saturday mornings, there's a farmer's market in addition to the shops inside, so it's an ideal place to put together a bag of picnic food to go off to Muir Woods, Napa, or even a fun hike over Nob Hill. My three favorite things there are; 1.Tsar Nicolai caviar bar- you can sample many different types of domestic caviar that aren't too pricey, but delicious. 2. Cow Girl Creamery for cheeses. 3. Slanted Door Restaurant-Asian Fusion cuisine- make reservations, even for lunch WAY in advance.
If you're staying at a hotel, use the concierge to make your dinner reservations if you don't make them in advance of your arrival in town. Not only will he/she help you with the reservation, they're more likely to be able to get you in to a place than by you calling on your own- they have connections. Alas, San Francisco is a reservations kind of town, although you can luck out, especially if you eat on the early side. Here, in no particular order are restaurants that I like, with a brief description afterwards, and the neighborhood.
Kokarri- Greek food, upscale, charming restaurant near Jackson Square (not far from the Omni, Mike and Carol) Last time I was there, we saw Kevin Bacon and Kyra Sedgewick. Didn't change the taste of the food, but it was fun!
Restaurant LuLu- South of Market on Folsom near Fourth St. Fun, lively (can be noisy) best oven-roasted mussels- they come sizzling to the table. Great rotisserie meats.
Azie- right next door to LuLu, Fun food, lively, but smaller restaurant- I had a Lobster pot de creme that was out of this world.
Shanghai 1930- Financial District South (just South of Market, near the FerryBuilding. Candied eel, and mixed seafood custard served in an eggshell are two of my favorite appetizers. Asian food, interesting basement location.
Boulevard- a few doors up from Shanghai- one of the quintessential San Francisco restaurants. Pricey, but Nancy Oakes, the chef, is famous for her wonderful food- I usually get seafood here, and the desserts are great.
Aqua- Financial District. Pricey, upscale SEAFOOD. This is the place to have gourmet seafood!
Postrio. Near Union Square. Wolkgang Puck's contribution to San Francisco- expensive, wonderful food.
Farrallon- right near Postrio- wonderful, pricey, impressive presentations.
Jardinere- behind City Hall, Civic Center. Another fabulous S.F. restaurant- fun old brick building. A real treat after a late tour of the NewAsianArtMuseum- WONDERFUL
Citizen Cake- near City Hall too. I like it best for lunch. Prices seem high for what you get, but the quality is excellent, and it's the desserts that you go for! Tropical Shag cake is my favorite, but the black pepper rose cake is truly unusual and good.
There are also a number of good hotel restaurants, but calling them that does them a disservice. Many hotels here partner with well known chefs to have a really wonderful restaurant right in the hotel:
Restaurant Michael Mina at the Westin St. Francis - newest and most expensive
Fifth Floor at the Palomar Hotel- VERY quiet, hushed atmosphere
Asia de Cuba at the Clift Hotel- if you don't go for dinner, go for a drink in the Redwood Room. Beautiful Murano glass bars, redwood paneling, and "moving artwork." If you stay for dinner, save room for the coconut cake.
And speaking of drinks, the view lounge at the top of the Marriott on Fourth Street is fairly typical of a large hotel bar, but it gets its name for a good reason.
And the "Top of the Mark" at the Mark Hopkins Hotel on Nob Hill is another S.F. experience with wonderful views- so nice at night!
O.k, as I said, I could go one forever. Most of the above are pricey, and a true "night out on the town" experience. And so far I've only given you picnic food and ice cream for the rest of your meals!
There are two areas of town that you'd probably enjoy just wondering around and stumbling across a cafe or small restaurant that won't break the budget, but will provide memorable food.
One is NorthBeach, the Italian neighborhood. Wonderful Italian shops- beautiful pottery and fun delicatessens. The Stinking Rose is popular (Think everything Garlic!) Moose's on Washington Square is really nice, but there are lots of cafes and pizza places that have a true Italian flavor. Save room for Gelatos.
The other is right next to NorthBeach, and that's Chinatown. Here, it's a little easier to go wrong for food, and I've been to some great places, but can't remember the names, so, again, ask at your hotel for a good place for Dim Sum, stroll all the shops, watch the seniors in the park practice Tai Chi, and go visit the Fortune Cookie Factory!
Other favorites:
If you've never had a Chicken Mole Burrito, it's an experience! The Mission District is full of little taquerias that serve wonderful Mexican food. The easiest to get to is probably the one next to the police station at 17th Street and Valencia.(Name is El Toro, I think, but it's right on the corner) I underlined Street, because we have both numbered streets AND avenues- very different parts of town. The neighborhood is in transition, so the Valencia Street Corridor is full of new restaurants- it's sometimes referred to as the Gourmet Ghetto. For great modern interpretation of Italian food, try Delfina on 18th Street (reservations necessary). Note: this is a very "urban" neighborhood, and while I don't hesitate to go there, it's an "urban adventure" for some of us that are used to suburbia.
Odds and ends: Vegetarian Food:- BUT REALLY GOOD Green's is a San Francisco Institution, and the dining room is right on the water at Ft.Mason. Lunch while shopping in Union Square: Try Kuletto's for Italian, right on Powell St. up from the cable car turnaround (Cable car to Fisherman's Wharf!) Or try a slice of pizza from Blondies Pizza- not gourmet, but sometimes it hits the spot. Armani cafe in the Armani store on Grant is fun, as long as you can resist the temptation to shop. If you're staying for a few days, and have a car: Alice Waters is probably one of the most famous chefs in the Bay Area, and certainly world-known. Her restaurant, Chez Panisse is across the Bay in Berkeley, and is usually on every foodie's list as a must see. I always opt for the upstairs cafe, rather than the downstairs dining room for a few reasons: cheaper(still pricey), easier to get reservations, and the menu isn't set like the dining room- if you eat downstairs, and they're serving braised oxtails, that's what you get!
Sight seeing? That’s almost as tall an order as trying to talk about food and restaurants! But here’s my stab at it. I’ll start with a few things to do by neighborhood, and then talk about the major sights that people usually want to see. And then we are officially done with my travelogue!
I mentioned in the shopping section about the South of Market area around Yerba Buena Gardens. Again, just South of Union Square, and there’s a lot to do here. In addition to museums mentioned, there’s the YerbaBuenaCenter for the Arts that has interesting modern art installations, sometimes a little more avant-garde than SFMOMA. The cartoon art museum is here, on Mission St., and we might have opened by the cruise the Museum of the African Diasphora at the new about-to-open St.RegisHotel. Unfortunately, the Jewish Museum and the MexicanMuseum are both under construction, but look for those on future trips.
Golden GatePark is one of the jewels of the City. Designed by Olmstead, who designed Central Park in NYC, it’s amazingly large and extends from the middle of the City (near the infamous Haight-Ashbury, across the Western portion of the City, all the way to OceanBeach. It’s lot of fun on the weekends, but wonderful for strolls during the week, too. The magnificent green houses have just been reopened after restoration from storm damage. The De Young Museum is still under construction, but is slated to be complete in October, so might be worth a stroll by to see the architecture, and it’s right next to the Japanese Tea Garden, worth a few pictures. Across the street in the park is the Arboretum, lovely at most times of the year. A short distance away, still inside the park, is StoweLake, where you can rent paddle boats and peddle around the man-made lake, watching flora and fauna. There’s an island in the middle with a waterfall, and you can hike up to the top of the island for, guess what, more wonderful views. There are horse stables and buffalo pastures, reflecting ponds, and open fields. And at the Ocean end of the park, even windmills!
In addition to the two neighborhoods mentioned in the food section, NorthBeach and Chinatown, the City is filled with neighborhoods that still cling to a particular identity. A quick stroll through the center at Japantown is a fun addition to the shops on Upper Filmore Street mentioned in the shopping post. Stop and have sushi at one of the local places- a little touristy, but fun. The Haight Ashbury, famous for its “Summer of Love” still has a counter-culture attitude, but there ARE both a Gap and Starbucks there, so things have changed a bit. Lots of tattooed and pierced folks, but an interesting stroll nonetheless. The Castro neighborhood is considered by most the epicenter of the Gay community and there are some cute shops and restaurants, as well as the Mission Dolores, one of the oldest missions in California. There are tours of the mission, and Dolores Street is lined with Palm trees planted there after the 1911 Exposition. If you go on your own to the Mission, just around the corner on Market Street is a cute restaurant called “Home” which has reasonably priced home-style food, served with generous cocktails and lots of style and attitude.
How about some of the must see things in San Francisco that you see on postcards:
Lombard Street, “the crookedest street in the world” Located between Russian Hill and Fisherman’s Wharf, it is best approached on foot, as the cars back up traffic, especially on weekends. You can also see it by taking the Powell St. Cable Car from either Union Square or Fisherman’s Wharf.
Cable Cars; the best line for tourists is the Powell Street line that runs from Market Street near Union Square all the way to Fisherman’s Wharf. You’ll go up, you’ll go down, and you’ll get to see a lot of San Francisco. For those interested in Churches, Grace Cathedral is at the top of Nob Hill, and faces the Fairmont Hotel. You can get there on this same cable car by getting off at the corner of Powell and California and walking up two blocks. Stop into the Fairmont to see their Victorian lobby, and see if you can take the elevators up for, yes, more great views. Then go back and hop back on the cable car to complete your trip- you’ll have to pay again, though.
TransAmerica Pyramid – the famed skyscraper that comes to a point. In the Financial District, and near NorthBeach, it’s actually more fun to see from a distance- CoitTower on Telegraph Hill is a great spot to see it.
Golden GateBridge- can be seen from a variety of points, but we’ll get the BEST view sailing under her on that Friday. Other tremendous views happen from a neighborhood called Sea Cliff, or from the old military installation, The Presidio, which is being converted to a park. The Presidio is where you would go to park and walk across the Golden GateBridge.
The famous row of Victorian Houses They are located on Alamo Square across from the Eastern side of the Park on Steiner Street. You can get great views standing in the park. Unfortunately, there’s not a lot around that neighborhood other than the view, so it’s really a “drive-by”
Fisherman’s Wharf/Pier 39/Ghiradelli Square. These three areas are very popular with tourists. Pier 39 has the additional attraction of the seals that have decided to settle in on some of the docks, rendering them useless for any other purpose! It is here where you would also get tickets to take the boat to Alcatraz to see the prison, or to AngelIsland and its nature preserve.
One fun thing to do that I don’t know where it fits in! Beach Blanket Babylon, a long-running cabaret in NorthBeach at Club Fugazi. Buy your tickets well in advance, and have a FUN night of entertainment at this “only in San Francisco” experience. Dine in NorthBeach before or after.
By taking Market Street South to the top, and pulling a U-turn, you can pull into a small parking lot which has AMAZING views of the City. Or, instead of turning around at the top of Market, keep going for two more lights and turn right on the road that takes you up to Twin Peaks- it's very popular, and the tour buses do go up there, and usually there are people selling t-shirts until the police chase them away- but the views of the entire city more than make up for it. You can see the entire city, the Bay, the Ocean, The Golden Gate Bridge, the BayBridge, The East Bay, and, on clear days, all the way to Mt Diablo (I live at the foot of the mountain!)
Excellent choice. The drive to the parking lot would take you past Castro and winding a bit. Do not panic. There is a slight climb. The parking lot will be on the far side of the oncoming lane. When you get out of your car, you are at the western limits of Noe Valley. It is immediately to your east.
Twin Peaks is nice. There is a Spanish term for the hills. The Breasts of the maiden. Honest. I am not getting feisty. One of the hills is today officially named Noe and the other is Eureka. Before the Castro was the Castro it was Eureka Valley.
Another location for views is from the Randall Museum (99 Museum way). Stop in their parking lot. Stroll past the Bufano's and out onto a bluff overlooking downtown.
Pano's was Greek. And the food was great. Artichoke hearts with goat cheese. And fantastic potatoes. Another item was the large variety of sausage. Did they have something called a Zorba? Or am I thinking of pizza from The Haystack or The Sausage Factory?
Sometimes we would wait 20 to 30 minutes to get in. There are a few places like that in the valley now.
Not just sure what you're talking about ...they had this amazing Greek cheese flamed in brandy, and their deep fried polenta was a favorite.
Wow, haven't been to the Sausage Factory in YEARS...a fraternity brother of mine used to live upstairs in the flat above, so we hung out there a lot.
Livin' out in the 'burbs, you lose touch with the old neighborhoods...Eric's on Church, Ma Tante Sumi on 18th, or Firefly...hmmm. I need to stay in after work more!
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Hope it's of some use. I tried to break it down by sites, food, etc. It's by no means exhaustive, but should give you a flavor of all that's available. (From Fall '05) It's in five or six parts.
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