Mumbai is a city of extreme contrasts, of great prosperity and abject poverty, of 21st-century technology and medieval squalor, epitomised by the destitute and crippled lying in rows beneath bright, electronic advertisements for dotcom companies. It boasts the finest collection of Victorian buildings anywhere in Asia and a myriad of temples and mosques. Yet 42% of its population live in slums - the highest percentage for any large Indian city. Mumbai is also congested with people (it has a population of approximately 15 million, which is rising relentlessly) its streets are clogged with traffic, its air is foully polluted by the barely controlled emissions of its factories and vehicles, and many of its buildings are slowly crumbling. However, the city still has much to offer. Mumbai is a colourful (the saris, the bazaars, the Indian sunlight), vibrant, energetic and friendly city, with a varied and fascinating history and many reasons to face the future with confidence.

Once Bombay (the city was renamed after the Hindu goddess Mumbadevi in 1995, although both names are still widely used), Mumbai is a peninsular that juts out southwest from the Indian subcontinent into the Arabian Sea. It has a hot, humid climate, which is only partly relieved by the annual arrival of the monsoon, between June and September. Originally, Mumbai was a group of seven separate islands. Gradually the islands merged into a single peninsula as land was reclaimed from the sea, although some of the former islands still lend their names to parts of the modern city - Colaba, for example.

Until the arrival of the Portuguese at Bombay in 1509 (they coined the original name, which is a corruption of the Portuguese for ‘good bay’) the islands were home to the Koli fishermen and to a community of Buddhist monks. The Portuguese established a trading base and, for more than a century, dominated the region. In 1661, the Portuguese colony passed to Britain, as part of the marriage settlement between Charles II and Catherine of Braganza. From then until 1858, Bombay was governed by the East India Company, whose raison d'etre was trade and profit. In 1858, following the suppression of the Indian Mutiny, control of British India passed from the East India Company to the Crown, where it remained until Independence in August 1947. It was during this 90-year phase that the modern city took shape. The demolition of the old Bombay fort, in the 1860s, was the precursor to the redevelopment of the British city, or what is now the centre of the city - the area referred to as ‘Fort’. Similarly, the extensive 1920s and 30s land reclamation along Back Bay provided the space for the development of the Marine Drive area of the city, now one of the most important parts of Mumbai.

From its earliest days an important entrepot, Mumbai today is the financial centre of India, home to the country’s largest stock exchange and the heart of its banking industry. It handles nearly a third of India’s foreign trade and is host to a large number of foreign multinationals. It is an important centre of the gem trade and film industry - Bollywood - is a national institution. For many visitors, the city is only a point of arrival, a springboard for the south or the architectural glories of the north. But to pass through Mumbai without tarrying a while is to miss one of the world’s great cities, as worthwhile and idiosyncratic as any on earth.

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Sightseeing Overview
Mumbai’s main areas of interest are located on the more southerly parts of the peninsula, where the European settlers established their enclave and where the various local communities took root. The centre of Imperial Bombay is the area known as Fort, after the fortifications that protected the British settlement. Starting in the 1860s, the Governors of Bombay embarked on an ambitious programme of building development, a process that continued under official and private patronage well into the 20th century. As a result, Mumbai boasts a stunning array of High Victorian buildings in a fascinating range of architectural styles, which reflect the then prevailing British passion for the Gothic as well as the influence of Indian and Saracenic styles. The result is a breathtaking affirmation of the wealth, panache and confidence of Imperial Bombay. There are numerous examples for the visitor to look at, but Mumbai University, Standard Chartered Bank Building and Municipal Corporation Building give a flavour of what can be expected.

At the same time as the sahibs were building their modern Imperial monuments in the Fort, the local communities were expanding rapidly to the north. This part of the city is every bit as characteristic of the modern city as the Fort is - some would say more so. Its narrow, twisting streets and raucous bazaars, all noise, activity and thronging with people, are a complete contrast to the spacious, tree-lined boulevards of the more southerly areas.

Superimposed on these two distinctly different parts of Mumbai is the modern city: the 1930s developments along Marine Drive and on Cumbala Hill, the modern office blocks to the west of the Maidans and the tower blocks that line the southern end of Back Bay. Further north, up the peninsula, are the suburbs of Mumbai and it is here that the worst of the shanty towns and slums are located. These are, sadly, as much part of modern Mumbai as the more glamorous areas to the south. The poverty, squalor and degradation are truly shocking.

Mumbai was a city built on toleration (prosperity was considered more important than religious homogeneity) and this is reflected in the number and range of places of worship that can be found in the city. The Anglican cathedral, Catholic church and Scottish kirk in Mumbai rub shoulders with countless Hindu temples, many mosques and other Parsee and Buddhist temples. Together, they form a rich and varied heritage.

Most attractions are fairly central and can be reached on foot. For those that cannot, visitors tend to take taxis, as they are relatively cheap and infinitely more convenient than public transport.

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Restaurants introductions
The lure of Bombay’s wealth has always attracted migrants from other parts of India and, from the very beginning, the city has played host to a substantial numbers of foreigners: Imperial administrators or soldiers, merchants, traders and moneymen. The polyglot character of the city and its wealth are reflected in a dazzling array of restaurants; the modern visitor can enjoy a wide variety of styles of cooking; American burger bars rub shoulders with western Indian vegetarian and Malay restaurants. In the great Indian cities the best (or at least the most expensive) restaurants have traditionally been found in the big international hotels. This, to some extent, is still the case, although the quality and variety of restaurants outside the marbled halls of the ‘five stars’ is growing all the time. Indeed, it is now possible to eat very well in Bombay without going into one of the big hotels at all. India, having a strong tradition of vegetarianism, is a most rewarding place for those who do not eat meat; menus are said to be ‘veg’ or ‘non-veg’.

Alcohol is a thorny subject in India, although the authorities here have a more relaxed attitude to it than in Delhi. Imported wine in India is expensive due to swingeing import duties; Indian wine is improving rapidly and offers a sensibly-priced alternative. Indian beer is delicious and invariably arrives at one’s table ice-cold; it is the ideal accompaniment to most types of subcontinental cuisine.

Key Attractions

Gateway of India
Built by the British to commemorate King George V and Queen Mary's visit to India in 1911, the Gateway of India stands as a monument to the importance of Mumbai as a port when the steamship was king. Designed by George Wittet, it replaced the temporary structure that the architect had erected for the Imperial visit itself and was completed in 1917. The archway is built from honey-coloured basalt, in a style derived from Gujarati architecture of the 16th century. For many in the age of steam, the Gateway and the nearby Taj Hotel were their first and their last sights of India. Nowadays, it attracts a colourful crowd of tourists, hawkers and beggars.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (CST)
(formerly Victoria Terminus)
Now the headquarters of the Central Railway, this magnificent terminus building, commonly known as CST, was completed in 1888, for the Great Indian Peninsular Railway, to designs by the architect FW Stevens. It is one of the world’s grandest railway stations, quite the equal of New York’s Grand Central Station or London’s St Pancras station. Built in the Italian Gothic style, it looks more like a cathedral than a railway station, an impression strengthened by the tall dome crowned with a statue representing ‘Progress’. In the public parts of the station, the Victorian arches soar splendidly above the hurrying throng, but its real glory is the main staircase. Sadly, this is in a part of the building to which the public is generally denied access, although a polite request to the stationmaster on the main concourse may result in permission being granted to visit the restricted areas. It is certainly worth the effort.

St Thomas’s Cathedral
St Thomas’s is the Anglican cathedral of Mumbai and, having been founded in 1676, bears witness to almost the entire history of the British in Bombay. The main structure was not completed, due to lack of funds, until 1718. The tower and clock were added in 1838, while the chancel was built in 1863. The main interest for the visitor is in the splendid array of marble monuments that line the aisles of the cathedral, which give an immediate, anecdotal flavour of life and death in British Bombay. Many of them catch the eye but look out for the memorial to Captain George Hardinge RN. Hardinge, in naval uniform, is being borne away on a huge seashell pulled by two fiery seahorses, while below is a relief of the action in which he was killed. The cathedral has recently been splendidly restored.

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Town Hall
An impressive neo-classical structure overlooking Horniman Circle, the Town Hall was built between 1821 and 1833, to designs by Colonel Thomas Cowper. It originally stood on Bombay Green, which was the centre of the Fort area, and is one of the few remnants (along with the Mint Building) of pre-Victorian Bombay. It is now used as a public library.

Jehangir Art Gallery
The premier exhibition space in Mumbai for contemporary Indian art, the Jehangir Art Gallery was founded by Sir Cowasji Jehangir, in memory of his son. It boasts two large galleries, which frequently stage changing exhibitions.

Shrine of Haji Ali
Commemorating a Muslim saint who died while on pilgrimage to Mecca, the Shrine of Haji Ali rises out of the sea off Mumbai, sparkling in the bright sunshine like an priceless jewel. The shrine, which is topped by an elegant tower, is connected to the mainland by a causeway (thronging with beggars) and is only accessible at low tide.

Balbulnath Temple
Perched on the northeastern end of Malabar Hill, overlooking Chowpatty Beach, a visit to Balbulnath Temple necessitates a steep climb. Nevertheless the effort is amply rewarded by the elaborate terrace and the splendid carving, picked out in blue, which adorns the pillared hall.

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Mumbadevi Temple
The shady and ornate first-floor balcony overlooking the noisy, chaotic square in the middle of the Bhuleshwar Market is part of the Mumbadevi Temple. The interior of the temple (in complete contrast to the bustle outside) is serenely calm, cool and dark. The temple is on three floors set around a central atrium that ascends to a dome. The carving that decorates the interior is ornate but never surrenders to fussiness. Next door, two other Hindu temples are similarly worth visiting.

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalya (formerly the Prince of Wales Museum)
Set in beautiful lush gardens, the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalya is one of the landmarks of south Bombay. The museum is housed in a grand and somewhat exotic building, designed by George Wittet in 1909, in the Indo-Saracenic style. The collections include ancient and medieval sculptures and artefacts, Indian decorative arts and a large number of beautiful miniatures. There is also a natural history section which contains a large number of stuffed animals and fish. The admission fee includes an audio tour.

Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum
(formerly Victoria and Albert Museum)
Housed in a purpose-built 19th-century Palladian villa, the Dr Bhau Daji Lad Museum collections are of mixed interest and quality and are generally badly displayed and poorly lit. There are some fine carvings in both wood and ivory, some interesting antique Indian weapons and a fascinating display of photographs of old Bombay. There are delightful and extensive formal gardens surrounding the villa, which also accommodate a zoo. Other highlights of the gardens are the elaborate Italian Renaissance-style gateway and the equestrian statue of Edward VII as Prince of Wales. The museum is at present closed for restoration; it is expected to reopen in January 2005.

Horniman Circle
Laid out in 1869, on the site of the old Bombay Green and originally called Elphinstone Circle, Horniman Circle is the epicentre of the Fort area. The Circle consists of James Scott’s elegantly curved, arcade terraces with a garden in the middle. It was the first significant piece of the city's redevelopment, which began under the governorship of Sir Bartle Frere in the 1860s. The gardens in the middle of the Circle, which are open to the public, are a lush and shady retreat from the glare and bustle of the streets, a good place to break a morning’s sightseeing. Following independence, the Circle was renamed Horniman Circle, after an English journalist, Benjamin Horniman, who was a leading advocate of Indian self-determination.

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Mumbai

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