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Casco Viejo
Young Balboa led expeditions from the Caribbean and soon learned that a large body of water was only a short distance west. He needed to impress King Ferdinand if he was to be successful in the colonies, and news that he was the first European to record a sighting of the Pacific Ocean in September 1513 seemed to guarantee favor. Unfortunately, the king had already dispatched Pedro Arias Davila as official governor of the province. Balboa was ordered to serve as his assistant. Davila, also known by the nickname Pedrarias, was jealous of the younger man, and after falsely accusing him of treason, executed him in 1519. Davila moved the colony to the Pacific coast where conditions were drier, and established the community of Panama la Viejo, the first Panama City. The original settlement thrived at first as the only Spanish Pacific port, but after Henry Morgan sacked the town, it was virtually destroyed. After the attack, a new settlement was established a few miles west where defense was more plausible. The original community, Casco Viejo, is the historic center of modern Panama City. The colonial-era Casco Viejo (“old compound”) peninsula forms Bahia de Panama’s lower “jaw”. A neighborhood of elegant, albeit dusty, baroque mansions and antique cathedrals, cobblestone streets recall Panama City’s faded glory. Known as San Felipe, it is also home to wide plazas and the city’s best museums.
The physical center is Plaza Catedral, where the namesake 18th century cathedral forms the western flank. Like many structures in the quarter, the church was partially fashioned from rescued parts of older Panama le Vieja buildings which have ornate inlaid stones in the design. Three of the bells from the antique carillon were also borrowed from Catedral de Panama la Vieja.
Just a few blocks away, where Calle 5 meets Panama Bay is Palacio de las Garzas. Named for the graceful white herons that live freely (and protected) on its grounds, the Moorish-style-palace is a magnificent sight.
Immediately south of the plaza, Museo del Canal Interoceanico is one of the finest exhibits in the Americas. The collection includes original signed treaties and rare contracts related to the Panama Canal as well as old film and still photos taken during the arduous construction effort. The museum opens daily, except Monday, from 9:30 AM until 5 PM. Across the street, Museo de Historia Panamena tells a less detailed version of Panamanian history. The building was French headquarters during the first failed attempt to build the canal. A few blocks away, Iglesia de San Jose has one of the most famous religious artifacts in the city. The intricate golden altar was the only valuable Henry Morgan did not steal when he plundered the city. According to local legend, a clever priest painted it black. Morgan even donated to the church to patch up the “ugly” altar.
Anthropology Museum
The official name for Calidonia District’s premier museum is Myseo Antropologico Reina Torres de Arauz. The collection includes pre-Columbian relics and showcases indigenous Panamanian culture. The artisan market befind the museum is closed Sundays and Mondays.
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